It’s too infrequent that the far eastern suburbs (except Stillwater) get something new and shiny in the restaurant category.

Marma, which opened this spring in Lake Elmo, is a happy exception.

The former No Neck Tony’s (which was a gas station) got a pretty makeover with lots of dark leather, dark wood and crystal chandeliers.

The Woodsman cocktail at Marma in Lake Elmo. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)

When I visited with friends on a recent frigid night, the menu, which includes pastas, bowls and other comforting items from around the globe, was just the thing.

We started unthawing with some cocktails, all of which were excellent, but the one that stood out to me was The Woodsman, a warming mix of rye, high-end sweet vermouth, herbaceous amaro and allspice. Topped with a sprig of charred rosemary, the drink hit all the notes I was looking for — sweet, smoky and strong with a hint of warming spice.

We couldn’t decide on an appetizer so ended up ordering two. The elotes-style Brussels, deep-fried for crispness and topped with a generous drizzle of chipotle aioli and crumbly feta, could have done without the bacon, but were definitely delicious. And the whipped feta dip could have been more, well, whipped, but we loved the addition of a bright chimichurri sauce.

I very much enjoyed my entree — spicy (but not overly so) Thai chili noodles spiked with plenty of vegetables. The sauce on the noodles is a good example of the kitchen’s devil-may-care attitude toward ingredients and labels: Korean gochujang, Japanese tamari and what I’m guessing was tahini aren’t Thai, but it doesn’t really matter because they taste great together.

The more straightforward penne al limone with parmesan, bacon, pistachio, arugula, peas and a bright lemon cream sauce was like a big, warm hug — something we all appreciated. Similarly, an andouille-shrimp special was warming and flavorful, and the shrimp were cooked just right. My husband’s salmon was cooked to a rosy medium, served atop creamy mashed potatoes and gilded with a flaky, crisp crab cake. We could have done without the out-of-season asparagus it came with, but I’m basically nit-picking at this point.

We had a dessert fan at the table who loved the overly sweet caramel swirl cheesecake (one bite was enough for me), but a mediocre dessert isn’t enough to influence my decision to visit again.

What might keep me away, at least during this season, is that guests sitting at the tables near the front door were subjected to a blast of cold air every time the door opened. We were seated near the middle of the dining room and could still feel it. In Minnesota, every restaurant should install a wind-trapping vestibule at its front door.

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I’ll return to belly up to the pretty bar, though, or check out the restaurant’s patio in the summer. And with how packed Marma (a portmanteau of the names of chefs Max Basaker and Marcus Clark, who worked together at Marx Fusion Bistro and Wine Bar) was on a Wednesday night, I’d say locals have already discovered this little Lake Elmo gem. In other words, make sure you have a reservation.

Small Bites are first glances — not intended as definitive reviews — of new or changed restaurants.

Marma

Where: 11127 Stillwater Blvd., Lake Elmo

Contact: 651-370-1342; marmamn.com

Prices: Appetizers run from $9-$19; sandwiches from $15-$16; bowls and pastas from $21-$22; entrees from $38-$49

Good to know: On-site parking; gluten-free and vegetarian options