Sesame noodles have long been a favorite in the Pang household, says Jeffrey Pang, coauthor of “A Very Chinese Cookbook: 100 Recipes from China and Not China (But Still Really Chinese)” (America’s Test Kitchen, $35), which he wrote with his son, Kevin.

While Kevin was a college student at the University of Southern California, every time he’d come home to Seattle, he’d ask his dad to bring cold sesame noodles to the airport when he picked him up. These were special cold sesame noodles, made with cold poached chicken, from Green Village, a family-run restaurant in Seattle.

“Sometimes at the airport, he’d jump in the car and, without a word, immediately start eating, greeting me hello only after a few bites!” Jeffrey says in the new book. “It’s easy to understand why it’s a favorite. It’s inexpensive, filling and supremely delicious. I suggest you make a jar of this rich, nutty, tingly sauce ahead of time, and you’ll have this magnificent dish ready anytime — like when your kid comes home to visit.”

Sesame Noodles 麻醬拌麵

Serves 4 to 6

INGREDIENTS

5 tablespoons soy sauce

1/4 cup Chinese sesame paste

2 tablespoons sugar

4 teaspoons Chinese black vinegar

1 tablespoon chili oil

“A Very Chinese Cookbook” by father-and-son coauthors Kevin and Jeffrey Pang shares a collection of more than 100 recipes aimed at making Chinese cooking more accessible for home cooks. (Courtesy America’s Test Kitchen)

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger

1 pound fresh thin white wheat noodles

1/2 English cucumber, cut into ­3‑inch-long matchsticks

1/4cup fresh cilantro leaves

2 scallions, green parts only, sliced thin

1 tablespoon sesame seeds, toasted

DIRECTIONS

In a blender, process the soy sauce, sesame paste, sugar, vinegar, 1 tablespoon water, chili oil, garlic and ­ginger until smooth, about 30 seconds, scraping down sides of blender jar as needed; transfer to large bowl.

Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add noodles and cook, stirring often, until just tender. Drain noodles and rinse under cold running water until chilled; drain well.

Transfer noodles to bowl with dressing and toss to combine. Adjust consistency with extra water as needed until sauce smoothly coats noodles. Transfer noodles to shallow serving bowl and top with cucumber, cilantro, scallions and sesame seeds. Serve.

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Note: If fresh thin white wheat noodles are unavailable, substitute fresh lo mein or 12 ounces dried wheat noodles. In a desperate pinch, spaghetti will work. Also, this dish is wholly satisfying as written, but you can add any topping. Poached chicken is a natural pairing. In Hong Kong you’ll find deli ham, red bell ­peppers and sliced egg omelet served on cold noodles.

— Kevin Pang and Jeffrey Pang, “A Very Chinese Cookbook: 100 Recipes from China and Not China (But Still Really Chinese)” (America’s Test Kitchen, $35)

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