It’s been a long eight years since Greek restaurant Christos closed its location in downtown St. Paul’s Union Depot.

Several other restaurants have come and gone, but the first outfit that I’ve felt has staying power has arrived. 1881 by Lake Elmo Inn comes from people who understand a historic eatery.

Both Lake Elmo Inn and Union Depot opened in 1881, which inspired the name of the St. Paul space. And owners John and Christine Schiltz have been with Lake Elmo Inn since the 1980s.

The menu at 1881 is essentially a shortened version of the one at Lake Elmo Inn, where wild rice, lake fish, duck and Hereford beef rule.

On a recent visit, I brought two downtown residents who haven’t been to Lake Elmo Inn to try out the menu — and to tell me honestly if they plan to return.

The space has been transformed into a dark-wood-clad, comfy-boothed, clubby atmosphere, and it only felt right to start out with a few cocktails. From the Hot Honey (a simple mix of gin, lemon and hot honey) to a fall margarita infused with a cranberry/rosemary reduction to an aquavit bloody Mary and a barrel-aged Manhattan, all were excellent.

We started with the Reuben truffles and duck “eggs” a l’orange, which we didn’t realize weren’t actual eggs. Both are basically stuffed fritters and the tasty Reuben truffles, filled with corned beef and sauerkraut, were the winners. Perhaps it’s because we ate the Reuben version first, but the duck version — stuffed with duck, wild rice, vegetables and fontina — were bland by comparison. I think next time I’ll try a classic shrimp cocktail or the provoleta (grilled provolone cheese served with a tomato relish).

Chopped wedge salad at 1881 by Lake Elmo Inn in St. Paul’s Union Depot. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)

We also ordered the chopped wedge salad, which I was excited about because I thought it would be easier to share than a traditional wedge. The components were all excellent, including a delicious house-made ranch dressing) but served in a deconstructed way, so that everyone could choose what was on their own little salad. While it was novel, I think I’d prefer the chef to toss my salad.

French onion soup at 1881 by Lake Elmo Inn in St. Paul’s Union Depot. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)

One of my guests is a huge fan of French onion soup, so we ordered 1881’s version, which is a lovely, perfectly seasoned version, topped with the requisite giant croutons and melty Swiss.

As for entrees, I ordered a panko-breaded walleye filet, which was fine but a bit on the fishy side, which made the lack of lemon (it was served with a fairly bland butter-chardonnay sauce) unforgivable. It was served with some fairly ho-hum carrot shavings and buttered potatoes.

My friend’s Hereford beef NY strip fared much better. Tender, beefy and well-seasoned, it was a steak we’d come back for.

The chicken Parmesan, served on linguine with a fresh, bright tomato sauce, was tasty but can’t really beat DeGidio’s version, which is $8 cheaper and a bigger serving.

Butternut squash ravioli at 1881 by Lake Elmo Inn at St. Paul’s Union Depot. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)

However, the butternut squash ravioli, bathed in a savory sage brown butter, was a winner and worth ordering again.

We were too full for dessert, which is brought out on an old-school dessert tray so you can check it out before you order.

The consensus from my downtown-dwelling friends was that 1881 is a nice addition to their walkable dining options, and they’ll be walking over for drinks and dinner, probably while sitting at the pretty bar. There are definitely areas where the restaurant could improve, but overall it’s a nice option for neighbors, train travelers and pre-event dining.

Small Bites are first glances — not intended as definitive reviews — of new or changed restaurants.

1881 by Lake Elmo Inn

Where: 214 E. Fourth St., St. Paul

Contact: 952-698-1881; 1881bylei.com

Prices: Appetizers run from $15-28; sandwiches (lunch only) $14-$20; entrees, $27-$48

Good to know: Lunch menu includes burger; gluten-free and vegetarian options available

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