Before The High Hat opened this summer, I stopped by to chat with owner Michael Noyes.

Albums by Taylor Swift and Thelonious Monk rest near the turntable at The High Hat, a new Cathedral Hill restaurant. (Jared Kaufman / Pioneer Press)

I was first struck by the stunning transformation he made to the former Bon Vie Bistro and A Piece of Cake location in St. Paul’s Cathedral Hill. The physical space was his starting point, he told me, and the food menu followed.

He’s worked in St. Paul restaurants for years as a “front-of-house guy” and is also a drummer. The High Hat is his first solo project.

I was excited to return for a meal once the restaurant had gotten on its feet — and Noyes nailed it. The cafe was bustling (but not overly noisy!) on a weekend morning earlier this fall, and the vibrant and jazzy atmosphere was truly delightful.

Oh, and the food was great, too.

My dining partner and I started with drinks. The staff, many of whom are Taylor Swift fans, created the coffee menu, and many drink names (“Lavender Haze,” “Anti-Hero”) are references for those in the know.

My choice, the “Muse,” was expensive for an espresso latte ($7) but autumnal, with orange, caramel and cinnamon on top. And as a nod to Bon Vie, the restaurant still serves fresh-pressed juice; the pineapple juice ($5) was extraordinarily rich.

Because of an ordering snafu (more on that later), the team kindly treated us to one of their warm caramel rolls, served with pecans in a miniature cast iron skillet. The restaurant’s cinnamon and caramel rolls ($8) are both made by pastry chef Andrew Dinsmore, who’s also responsible for the elegant dessert menu at W.A. Frost and Company.

The dough itself was perfectly flaky, and although the intense heat of the cast iron skillet charred the gooey caramel a little more than I would’ve liked, the generous helping of butter on top saved the day as it slowly melted over the pastry.

The entree menu puts a Southwestern spin on breakfast classics. Instead of a classic eggs Benedict, for example, the High Hat plops a poached egg atop cornbread and layers it with chorizo and a salsa verde hollandaise ($16). Another menu item consists of a buttermilk biscuit waffle with a rosemary country gravy ($13).

Blue corn pancakes, with fried plantains baked inside and coconut whip on top at the High Hat cafe. (Jared Kaufman / Pioneer Press)

The blue corn pancakes ($15) are particularly clever, with fried plantains baked directly in. (Blue corn is the same species as common yellow corn but a different varietal of the crop, with generally higher protein and lower sugar.)

Besides the unique indigo color, the blue corn gave the not-too-sweet pancakes a heartiness that made the breakfast feel actually nourishing, unlike the quasi-dessert quality of other diner pancakes. The coconut “whipped cream” and real maple syrup lent some sweetness but more importantly relevant flavor, too: Not just sugar for sugar’s sake. I’m a big fan.

The High Hat’s huevos divorciados ($14) are a more straightforward interpretation of the Mexican breakfast dish and also quite tasty. Two over-medium eggs, pico de gallo and salsas are each served atop a pair of crunchy tortillas with a schmear of refried beans sandwiched between them.

The only miss: On the day we reviewed the meal, the hash browns on the side of the huevos divorciados were quite underseasoned and almost tasted as if they’d been cooked from frozen.

The restaurant opened with just a breakfast menu, but

Noyes has bigger plans. This week, he’s rolling out a lunch menu, with options including a beef/chorizo burger on grilled ciabatta bread. Hours are 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Tuesdays through Sundays, but if community support remains strong, Noyes also hopes to expand to all-day service for a more lounge-y feel.

He’s also coming up with other creative ideas: Every Saturday and Sunday, one silverware bundle contains a golden fork and knife — unwrap it, Willy Wonka-style, and your meal is free.

About that “ordering snafu” I mentioned earlier — earlier this fall, we dined at prime brunch hour on a busy Saturday morning. Because of a printing error, our order wasn’t sent to the kitchen. All told, our quick breakfast took about two hours.

But you know what? It was just fine with me.

Good company, in a space with good music, good vibes and ultimately good food at prices that are pretty reasonable make The High Hat a spot I’m perfectly content to hang out.

Caramel rolls at the High Hat, served in a miniature cast iron pan. (Jared Kaufman / Pioneer Press)

The High Hat

Where: 485 Selby Ave. in St. Paul’s Cathedral Hill.

Hours: Open 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Tuesdays through Sundays; closed Mondays.

Contact: 651-528-7941; also on Facebook and Instagram

Prices: Breakfast entrees range from $9–$16; cinnamon rolls and caramel-pecan rolls are $8 each; beverages including espresso drinks, juice and lemonade range from $4 to $8.

Reservations: Not accepted; walk-ins only — but so far, even on busy weekends, there’s rarely too long of a wait.

Good to know: Customers get to control the music, so head to the turntable and feel free to put on a vinyl record you like.

— Small Bites are first glances — not intended as definitive reviews — of new or changed restaurants.

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