Small potatoes have become the darlings of chic cuisine. Whether they are Baby Dutch Yellow beauties with their crisp golden flesh, or gnarly fingerling spuds that look like digits sprouted from the hand of a fairy-tale witch, they take up prime space in local supermarkets.

They are delicious in chowder, adrift in a tasty bacon-y broth spiked with saffron and thyme. Halibut fillets are a delectable addition, added during the last few minutes of cooking.

When entertaining, I’ve been known to make the broth in advance, then cool it and refrigerate it for up to 24 hours. Reheated to a simmer, the fish is added atop the mix, covered, and then cooked about 10 minutes or until just barely opaque. Scrumptious.

Chowder With Saffron and Fingerling Potatoes

Yield: 6 servings

INGREDIENTS

4 thick-cut slices bacon (about 1/4 pound), cut into thin crosswise strips

1 1/2 cups chopped leeks (white and pale green portions only, about 2 large leeks)

3 (8-ounce) bottles clam juice

1 pound fingerling potatoes or Baby Dutch Yellow potatoes, washed, dried, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick rounds, or if small, cut in half lengthwise

1/2 cup dry white wine or water

1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme leaves

1/2 teaspoon crumbled saffron threads

1/2 cup whipping cream

Salt and pepper to taste

6 (5-ounce) cod or halibut fillets

DIRECTIONS

1. Cook bacon in large pot or Dutch oven on medium heat until crisp. Using slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels to drain. Add leeks to pot. Cover and cook until leeks are very tender, stirring frequently, about 4 minutes. Add clam juice, potatoes, wine or water, thyme and saffron. Bring to boil; reduce heat to medium and cover. Simmer until potatoes are just tender, stirring occasionally, about 7 minutes.

2. Stir in cream and reserved bacon. Taste and adjust seasoning, adding salt, if needed, and pepper.

3. Sprinkle fish with salt and pepper; place atop chowder. Cover and simmer until fish is opaque in center, about 10 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer 1 fillet to each of 6 bowls. Ladle chowder over fish and serve.

Source: Adapted from Bon Appetit magazine

Award-winning food writer Cathy Thomas has written three cookbooks, including “50 Best Plants on the Planet.” Follow her at @CathyThomas Cooks.com.

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