Recipes: Quick fall pastas for easy weeknight dinner
Almost exactly a year ago, I wrote about how pasta was all I wanted for dinner. Maybe it’s the season — a little chill in the air, a lot of too much going on — that calls for tender noodles.
Also, it’s only Tuesday, but are you tired? I am, and pasta is the easiest one-dish dinner for anyone feeling weary. If you start boiling a pot of water right after you walk in the door, you can eat in half an hour or less. Work vegetables and proteins into the dish, and you really don’t need anything else to complete the meal, whether it’s cheesy macaroni or soupy soba.
But the real beauty of pasta is that it tastes so special, especially when it’s swirled with fall produce. There’s a real restaurant feel to that kind of dish, but it comes at a fraction of the cost when made at home. And the very thrill of that is enough to give me a soft second wind to pull noodles out of the pantry and start cooking.
1. Pasta With Butternut Squash, Kale and Brown Butter
Pasta with Butternut Squash, Kale and Brown Butter. This Ali Slagle recipe lets butter brown with seared squash so both end up extra nutty and rich, and then accentuates that goodness with warm spices. Food Stylist: Monica Pierini. (Christopher Testani/The New York Times)
This pantry pasta turns cold-weather basics — pasta, squash, kale and butter — into something luxurious and deeply flavored, thanks to garam masala, the warming spice mix used in many South Asian dishes like kebabs and curries. But since this is a pantry pasta, you can substitute freely: Consider another nutty spice or two, like five spice, turmeric with chile powder, or cinnamon with crushed fennel seeds. Whole-wheat pasta stands up to the squash and spiced browned butter, but regular pasta will work as well. In place of squash, use chickpeas or carrot, and instead of kale, try something else green, like Brussels sprouts, Broccolini or mature spinach.
By Ali Slagle
Yield: 4 servings
Total time: 30 minutes
INGREDIENTS
Kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)
1 tablespoon neutral oil, such as canola or grapeseed oil
1 to 1 1/2 pounds butternut, honeynut, acorn or delicata squash, peeled if desired, halved, seeded and sliced 1/4-inch-thick crosswise
1 pound whole-wheat spaghetti or linguine
1 bunch Tuscan kale, ribs removed, leaves torn or coarsely chopped
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, sliced
1 1/4 teaspoons garam masala
1/2 teaspoon red-pepper flakes, plus more as needed
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest plus 2 tablespoons juice (from 1 lemon), plus more juice as needed
Grated Parmesan, for serving
DIRECTIONS
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Meanwhile, in a large Dutch oven or skillet, heat half the oil over medium-high. Add half the squash in a single layer, season with salt and cook, undisturbed, until browned underneath, 3 to 5 minutes. Scoot the squash to the side of the pot, piling it up as needed to make room, then add the remaining oil. Arrange the remaining squash in a single layer, season with salt and cook until browned, 3 to 5 minutes. (If there’s not enough room for the second batch, remove the browned squash to a plate while you cook the rest.)
2. When the water comes to a boil, add the pasta and cook according to package directions until al dente. During the last 3 minutes of the cooking, add the kale. Reserve 1 cup of the pasta water, then drain the pasta.
3. When all the squash is browned, return all the squash to the pot, if you set any aside while cooking the second batch. Reduce the heat to medium-low, add the butter and stir with the squash until the butter is golden, nutty smelling and foaming, 1 to 4 minutes. (If you’re using a dark pot, it can be hard to tell if the butter’s browned, so spoon some of the butter on the squash to see if the butter’s speckled brown.) Turn off the heat, add the garam masala and red-pepper flakes, and stir until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add 1 tablespoon of cold water (or an ice cube) and toss gently to stop the cooking, then set aside until the pasta is ready.
4. Add the pasta and 1/2 cup pasta water to the squash mixture. Set over low heat and toss gently until the pasta is glossed with sauce. (Some squash pieces might break apart, which can be a good thing: better disbursement through the pasta.) If the pasta looks dry, add more pasta water as needed. Remove from heat and stir in the lemon zest and juice. Season to taste with more lemon juice, red-pepper flakes and salt. Top servings with grated Parmesan.
2. Longevity Noodles With Chicken, Ginger and Mushrooms
Longevity Noodles With Chicken, Ginger and Mushrooms. “Longevity noodles,” also presented at birthday celebrations, are never cut or broken by the cook, and if they can be eaten without biting through the strands, it’s considered even more auspicious. Food Stylist: Vivian Lui. (Romulo Yanes/The New York Times)
During Chinese New Year, long noodles are eaten in all corners of China. “Longevity noodles,” also presented at birthday celebrations, are never cut or broken by the cook, and if they can be eaten without biting through the strands, it’s considered even more auspicious. Longevity noodles are usually stir-fried, presenting challenges to the home cook.
Noodles should be stir-fried alone and lightly oiled so that they don’t clump together in the wok, and all ingredients must be completely dry so they sear properly.
Recipe from Grace Young
Adapted by Julia Moskin
Yield: 2 to 3 main-dish servings
Total time: 30 minutes
INGREDIENTS
12 ounces thin fresh noodles, like lo mein or tagliarini
2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil
12 ounces boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 1/4-inch-thick, bite-size slices
1 tablespoon finely shredded ginger
1 teaspoon plus 1 tablespoon Chinese rice wine or dry sherry
1 teaspoon cornstarch
1 teaspoon plus 1 tablespoon soy sauce
Salt
1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper
2 tablespoons peanut or vegetable oil
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
5 ounces (about 3 cups) thinly sliced Napa cabbage
4 ounces (about 2 cups) fresh shiitake mushrooms, stems removed, caps thinly sliced
1/2 cup finely shredded scallions
DIRECTIONS
1. Bring a medium saucepan of water to boil over high heat and cook noodles until just done, 3 to 5 minutes, stirring to prevent sticking. Drain in a colander and rinse with cold water until cool, then shake well to remove water. Return noodles to pot, add sesame oil, and toss.
2. Put chicken in a shallow bowl and add ginger, one teaspoon rice wine, cornstarch, one teaspoon soy sauce, 1/4 teaspoon salt and pepper. Mix gently to combine. In a small bowl, combine remaining one tablespoon rice wine and one tablespoon soy sauce.
3. Heat a wok over high heat until a bead of water evaporates almost on contact. Swirl in one tablespoon peanut oil, add red pepper flakes and stir-fry 10 seconds using a metal spatula. Push pepper flakes aside and add chicken, spreading in a single layer to maximize contact with the wok. Let cook undisturbed one minute, until chicken begins to sear.
4. Stir-fry chicken and pepper flakes together, tossing in the wok, for a minute or 2 until just done. Remove to a bowl. Add cabbage and mushrooms and stir-fry one minute until just wilted but not cooked. Empty into the bowl with chicken.
5. Reheat wok, swirl in remaining one tablespoon peanut oil, and add noodles. Stir-fry 30 seconds, moving constantly to heat through. Swirl soy sauce-rice wine mixture and add to wok along with chicken-vegetable mixture and scallions. Sprinkle on 3/4 teaspoon salt and stir-fry a minute or 2 until chicken and vegetables are heated through.
3. Cheesy Stovetop Mac With Sausage and Kale
Quick, easy and delicious, this one-pan meal is perfect for weeknights when cleaning up is the last thing you want to do. It’s reminiscent of hamburger skillet macs, which gained popularity in the 1970s, thanks to Hamburger Helper, when beef prices were high and families wanted to stretch a pound of meat. This kale-packed version spices up that classic with herby sweet Italian sausage, fresh garlic, red-pepper flakes and hot sauce. Like the original, the starch from the pasta helps thicken the cooking liquid into a quick sauce that becomes creamy once the cheese is added. Serve with a crisp green salad and toasted bread.
By Romel Bruno
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
Total time: 30 minutes
INGREDIENTS
3 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 white onion, diced
1 large bunch kale, leaves only, coarsely chopped
Kosher salt
3 large garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 pound loose sweet Italian sausage (see Tip)
1/4 teaspoon red-pepper flakes
6 cups low-sodium chicken broth or water
1 pound short pasta (such as macaroni, cavatappi or fusilli)
2 cups/8 ounces shredded sharp Cheddar
1 1/2 teaspoons hot sauce, plus more to taste
DIRECTIONS
1. Heat the olive oil in a large, wide pot or a very large, deep skillet over medium-high, then add the onion, kale and 1/2 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the kale has cooked down and the onion is smaller in size, 4 to 5 minutes.
2. Add the garlic and tomato paste and cook, stirring often, until the paste darkens slightly, 1 to 3 minutes.
3. Add the sausage and cook, breaking the meat into small pieces, until it loses its pink color, 4 to 5 minutes.
4. Add the red-pepper flakes, sprinkle with salt and give everything a good stir. Add the chicken broth and pasta and stir to combine. Bring the liquid to a boil, then reduce the heat to low, place a lid on the pan and cook until the pasta is soft but still has some bite to it, about 10 minutes. Be sure to check on the pasta and stir every now and again. (The sauce will have thickened from the starch in the pasta.)
5. Add the cheese and hot sauce and mix well. Add salt and additional hot sauce to taste before serving.
Tip: If you can find only Italian sausage links, use them instead and squeeze the meat out of the casings.
4. Shrimp Bolognese
Shrimp Bolognese. Save three-hour simmers of meaty Bolognese for the weekends and try Yotam Ottolenghi’s genius quick take with shrimp. Food Stylist: Martha Tinkler. (Andrew Scrivani/The New York Times)
This fishy take on the classic pasta sauce does everything the original does but with much less cooking. Tagliatelle is great, but you can use most other pasta shapes.
By Yotam Ottolenghi
Yield: 4 servings
Total time: 40 minutes
INGREDIENTS
1/2 small fennel bulb, roughly chopped
1/2 small onion, roughly chopped
5 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
1/2 teaspoon red-chile flakes
1 1/3 pounds/600 grams peeled, raw king prawns or extra-jumbo shrimp (or use the largest shrimp you can find)
1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon/90 milliliters olive oil
1 lemon, finely shaved to get 5 strips of peel and squeezed to get 1 tablespoon juice
3 tarragon sprigs (about 5 grams), plus 1 tablespoon chopped leaves for serving
3 1/2 tablespoons tomato paste
1/4 pound/120 grams cherry tomatoes, finely chopped
Salt and black pepper
1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon/90 milliliters Pernod (or a similar anise liqueur)
2 cups/500 milliliters chicken or vegetable stock
12 ounces/320 grams dried tagliatelle pasta
DIRECTIONS
1. Add the fennel, onion, garlic and chile flakes to the bowl of a food processor and pulse about 10 times, until more finely chopped. Add the shrimp and pulse another 10 times, until finely chopped. (Don’t process too much; you don’t want the shrimp to turn to a paste. Smaller shrimp will require less pulsing, though.)
2. Add 1/3 cup/70 milliliters oil to a large saute pan set over medium-high heat with the lemon peel and tarragon sprigs. Gently fry for 2 minutes, then add the shrimp and fennel mixture. Fry, stirring every now and then for about 10 minutes, or until the shrimp have released and then reabsorbed their liquid.
3. Add the tomato paste, tomatoes, 1 1/4 teaspoons salt and a very generous amount of black pepper and fry for 4 minutes, stirring every now and then until the tomato paste becomes thick and sticky and begins to brown. Carefully pour in the Pernod and let it bubble away for 1 minute (it may flame).
4. Add the stock and 1 tablespoon lemon juice, turn the heat down to medium and simmer gently for 15 minutes, lowering the heat if it is bubbling too much. Discard the tarragon sprigs and lemon peel.
5. Meanwhile, cook the pasta per package instructions until al dente, then drain well and add to a large bowl. Pour over the sauce and toss together well. Transfer to a platter and drizzle over the remaining tablespoon/20 milliliters oil. Finish with plenty of pepper and the chopped tarragon and serve.
5. Orecchiette With Brussels Sprouts and Bratwurst
Orecchiette With Brussels Sprouts and Bratwurst. Sauerkraut lovers will be delighted with Kay Chun’s riff on choucroute garnie, a classic dish from Alsace that braises sauerkraut with all manner of pork. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews. (Ryan Liebe/The New York Times)
This zesty pasta is a playful riff on choucroute garnie, the classic Alsatian dish. The usual suspects (pork and cabbage) show up in the form of bratwurst, Brussels sprouts and sauerkraut. Instead of potatoes, pasta joins the party, and everything comes together in a tangy sauce of Parmesan, sour cream and fresh dill. Buy sauerkraut that looks fresh and crunchy for best flavor and texture. For a more kid-friendly meal, swap in shell pasta. If you happen to find yourself with leftovers, they make a tasty cold pasta salad.
By Kay Chun
Yield: 4 servings
Total time: 20 minutes
INGREDIENTS
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
12 ounces fully cooked bratwurst (about 4 links), sliced 1/2-inch thick (see Tip)
1 cup thinly sliced onion
12 ounces Brussels sprouts, quartered if large or halved if small (about 3 cups)
8 ounces drained sauerkraut, coarsely chopped (about 1 1/2 cups)
3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
Salt and pepper
1 pound orecchiette
1/2 cup grated Parmesan (2 ounces), more for serving
1/2 cup sour cream (4 ounces)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill, parsley or chives
DIRECTIONS
1. Melt the butter in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the bratwurst and onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden, about 5 minutes. Add the Brussels sprouts, sauerkraut and garlic and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the Brussels sprouts are crisp-tender, about 5 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, cook the pasta in a pot of boiling salted water until al dente. Reserve 1 1/2 cups pasta cooking water and drain the pasta. Return the pasta and reserved cooking water to the pot over low heat. Add the sausage mixture, Parmesan, sour cream and dill and stir until slightly thickened and saucy, about 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Serve with more Parmesan, if desired.
Tip: Fully cooked bratwurst is widely available in most markets. If using fresh, lightly prick them with a fork, and simmer in water or stock (or pan-fry in oil or butter) until cooked through, about 15 minutes.
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