Ski Wednesday: Burke remains a Northeast Kingdom jewel
It’s profound to imagine what a victim of crime endures over time. Even in the case of a financial crime, the scars can be deep. Your looks might change and your view of the world could be skewed. After all, who could blame you?
And then there are the outliners; the victims who somehow – despite all the odds – come through changed, yes, but somehow shining. They are few and far between, and sometimes, they are not just one, but rather an entire community. And sometimes even a mountain community.
Look, then, at Burke Mountain Resort (https://skiburke.com/) and the community that’s stood by its side since it – and they – were swept into an ugly crime that left them in shock and shambles after the criminals themselves, owners who’d sucked millions of dollars from the resort (and others) for their own coffers and eventually landed in jail.
While I am not sure Burke lovers and loyalists can ever see a capital Q without twitching again (former owner Ariel Quiros, renamed the resort “Q-Burke” after himself before his arrest and jail sentence), they’re in their glory with new owners. “New” is a relative term here; the ownership that pulled the resort out of receivership has long time industry cred and a personal connection to Burke itself.
Consider their name: Bear Den Partners, a group led by Jon Schaefer, owner of Berkshire East Mountain Resort and Catamount, and Ken Graham, who has deep ties to the Northeast Kingdom.
The mission is right there in the name: The Bear Den is a somewhat decrepit but very much loved mid-mountain bar at the resort that, when it faced tearing down more than a decade ago, was saved when passionate regulars rose up and demanded it stay. In all its broken down glory, it remains a hot spot on the mountain. Choosing that name sends a message. Bear Den Partners are there to heal and improve Burke, but always as those who love it want most.
And that community that suffered along with the hill but never tamped back their love and support? I see them as a mangrove. On the surface, they are individuals; business owners, Burke staff, long-time skiers. But below that surface run deep roots that connect them all as one. Like a mangrove in a hurricane, that root structure that bound them together may very well be what saved it all.
There’s plenty of snow awaiting at Burke Mountain Resort in Vermont. (Moira McCarthy photo)
To Bear Den Partners, it’s the number one priority. Honor their loyalty and keep their mountain running well in perpetuity, for the sake of those who stood strong.
I visited Burke for the first time since Bear Den Partners took over nearly a year ago. Rather than a mournful society crawling its way out of the nightmare it was in, I found joy, hope and relief. I quickly understood why: Burke is truly a mountain worth cherishing.
Burke sits in Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom. It feels remote, but at three hours from Boston proper, it’s an easy destination.
We arrived early on a Thursday to find sunny skies, almost no wind and lots of snow. This winter has delivered and so grooming was perfect, trees still held soft stashes and the entire mountain was open.
First run, any worries I had about the years of receivership changing the heart of the place was pushed away: The place still exudes excellence.
This scenic run is one of the reasons to visit Burke Mountain Resort. (Moira McCarthy photo)
On paper, Burke might seem quaint. With just two high speed lifts and three surface lifts, you might assume your laps will be redundant. I’m here to tell you it’s only when you want them to be.
Burke is set up like two resorts in one. At the Sherburne base you’ll find a classic base lodge, a magic carpet, classic J-bar (installed in the past year) and the Sherborne Express quad. All those lifts access the lower mountain; a big, bright learning area with multiple routes down; some open and some more narrow. Trees and views abound. It’s like a magical pocket of just-right skiing for those who want or need more mellow. You never see someone schussing through there. It’s serene but far from boring.
The upper mountain, served only by the Mid-Burke Express high speed quad and a T-bar used mostly by the students of Burke Academy, which has produced 40 Olympian alumni, including Mikaela Shiffrin.
From the top you find steep and peppy. Burke mountain boasts serious slope, lots of narrow, winding trails, some wide open cruisers that you can truly let go on, and more tree skiing that you might need all winter to pull off a full sample.
For me, the shining stars were Carriage Road, a super narrow tree-lined trail with shifting fall lines and turns that make skiing it feel like meditation, Big Dipper, where I could rip giant GS turns top to bottom (“I’m flying!” I shouted to the universe one run), and many other trails of varied levels. I loved breezy Dipsy Doodle as much as I did the more technical Doug’s Drop.
But let’s talk about East Bowl. East Bowl doesn’t draw as many skiers as other trails because it does require a tiny bit of a hike and a good plan (as well as some poling) for the post trail run off.
But talk about worth it. From the scenery (sun streaming through thick trees; brief moments of views across the Kingdom, to the the way the trail moves you – side to narrow side at some points, perky drops that crank up your speed at others, I would put it up as one of the very best trails out there – and I mean anywhere. One warning: the run out can be tough on snowboarders. Here is where “redundant” can be a choice. We lapped it four times each day.
The trail conditions were perfect, signage well placed and easy to spot and the lifts ran like clockwork.
One chair trip up I rode with a man who boasts 50 plus years of Burke loyalty. I asked him what he hopes for from Bear Den Partners. More trails cut? Another lift? He didn’t hesitate with his response.
“Be good to our staff,” he said. “They are the reason we are all still here, and it’s not been easy for them. So that’s my number one.”
Mangroves. They exist in skiing, too.
Getting to know Burke
Burke Mountain: Located in East Burke, Vt. Features 55 trails, 100 acres of glades across a total 178 skiable acres with a vertical drop of 2,011. (https://skiburke.com/)
Lodging: Burke boasts just about every kind of slope side lodging you might desire. The Burke Mountain Hotel sits mid mountain with studio as well as 1-3 bedroom units, all with mountain views. There’s a hot tub, dining spots and more. Slope side condos along the trails and at the Sherborne base are another option. Ski and stay packages available.
Locals demanded the Bear Den remain a classic mountain pub — and it has. (Moira McCarthy photo)
Dining: On mountain you can find great apres and meals at The View Pub in the hotel, The Tamarac Pub at the Sherburne base, classic ski area fare at the Kingdom Cafeteria or the Edmunds Cafeteria in the hotel – where you’ll find a crackling fire and amazing views. For that old school apres or lunch vibe, pop into the Bear Den mid-mountain. And for an affordable fun nosh, grab a New York-style hot dog from the stand in the Bear Den building.
Off Mountain: East Burke sits just a couple of miles downhill from the resort. There you’ll find a supermarket, gas stations, a few ski shops and some great dining spots like Aunt Dee Dee’s Homemade Baked Goods (at the base of the mountain road. Do go!) The Wildflower Inn (https://www.wildflowerinn.com/) and the Burke Publick House (https://www.burkepub.com/) a local favorite where you must ask for “Ben the Bartender.”
Indy Pass: Burke is an IndyPass member (https://www.indyskipass.com/), one of the best deals in skiing.
Other news: The same ownership group has just purchased Smuggler’s Notch, Vt. Stay tuned for details. (https://www.smuggs.com/)
