Ski Wednesday: Revamped Cranmore still sports plenty of soul
If, like me, you’re a long-time Cranmore skier who hasn’t been there in a minute, the new arrival experience can be somewhat of a shock and – at first – a concern.
After all, the base area has changed in just about every way. Where smaller, older buildings once stood and the mountain scene stretched out before you in an old-school kind of way, you now arrive at beautiful, tall and spiffy new buildings with housing, some retail and a big new base lodge, but with less view of the hill itself.
You wonder: Has my lovely little mountain taken on a new persona?
After a late season weekend visit last spring, I’m here to assure you all: The heart, soul, spirit and personality that has always been Cranmore is alive and kicking. In other words, the mountain has found a way to meld comfort and modernity with classic ski vibe that has brought the North Conway mountain fame since its opening in 1937.
From its first rope tow that year to the installation of the famed “Skimobile” in 1938 (raise your hand if you rode that unique lift in its heyday), to Austrian Hans Schneider’s arrival with his “Alberg Technique” to start what is considered the nation’s first real American ski school, Cranmore has always – despite its relatively moderate vertical – been a big name in the ski game.
We arrived on a Thursday evening with my grandchildren in tow, looking forward to a weekend of relatively stress-free family fun, some solid lessons for the kids and a chance to soak in Mount Washington Valley and North Conway (voted top ski town in the U.S. by USA Today this year).
The new and expansive base area deck is the new hub of the community vibe that Cranmore has embraced since the 1930s. (Moira McCarthy photo)
I had another goal too: for my grandkids to get to know yet another ski spot that holds a special history to me.
I could have done it old school: The surrounding area has countless inns and hotels that have been in business for decades. But I decided to emulate Cranmore itself and meld new with classic. We checked in to the nearly-slopeside Fairfield by Marriott Inn & Suites North Conway with two bright and comfortable rooms that all seven of us settled into comfortably.
We already knew it had an indoor pool (perfect for little kid apres) and was walking distance to tubing and skiing (they will shuttle you over to the ski school and base lodge area if you mind the walk; we found it all quite easy).
We also found more fun, like the free smores kits to savor at their firepits; they didn’t flinch when my grands wanted seconds. The staff was kind and attentive and the location perfect.
We headed out day one to drop the girls (ages 6 and 7 at the time) for a half day learning program. Cranmore uses Terrain Based Learning, a brilliantly simple system that uses terrain to help learners embrace proper turning, gliding and build confidence on the snow. Their instructor, Stella, took to the kids right away and zeroed in, using that TBL, to focus on their specific needs.
Both girls had become proficient after a six-week program at a hill close to our home. With Stella and using terrain-based learning, they soared. And we adults were able to head off and cruise the mountain without a worry about the kids.
Cramore’s skiing may not involve head-spinning vertical, but it’s full of fun trails for every level. Beginners will be in heaven – almost literally – since they can ski top to bottom on mellow and scenic Easy Street. Intermediates will find variety all over with lots of well-groomed and just-wide-enough classic New England trails. And while experts may not walk away with survival tales, they’ll have fun. The blues tend to be a bit more peppy than most, and there are glades galore to be found on both sides of the mountain.
The nearby Eastern Slope Inn displays one of the original Cranmore skimobile carts from days gone by. (Moira McCarthy photo)
And then there’s the “East Bowl,” the back side of the mountain, a cruiser paradise that skis like a resort within a resort. It’s fun and offers beautiful views with another perspective.
But what about that old-school vibe? Has the posh base, well-run lifts and top-notch snowmaking system robbed this historic spot of its true personality?
Absolutely not. Despite my worries at arrival, once I crossed behind those shiny buildings (which we must give a tip of our hat to; the real estate profits allow the owners to pour all that is needed into the hill), I found the love.
The decks, with plenty of seating, fire pits, direct access to the base lodge and food and a fantastic view of the goings on up on the hill, are perfect. The famed Competition Hill still hosts the local’s weekly Meister Cup races and on this day, a pond skim with a passionate and happy crowd. Smiles still abound, and folks are just plain friendly.
In the middle of it all still stands Zips Pub, a spot so classic that I can walk in the door and see friends sitting in their same stools I saw them in circa 1980. It’s worn down to a point that it stands out against all the new. I don’t mind that. But now that I’ve seen that replacing yucky old restrooms and building roomy, comfortable hangouts doesn’t rob a place of its true spirit, I don’t really mind that this is said to be Zip’s final season. The new will be welcomed.
The moment it all clicked was when, post lessons, my daughter and I took some runs with the kids. My granddaughter commented on how a skier was taking tighter turns than we encouraged her to take. I explained that once skiers are ready and in control, they can graduate to that.
Off the lift, we set the girls out first, skiing behind them. Right away, the 7-year-old carved tight, excellent parallel turns – just like the skier we had seen. She stopped and smiled a mischievous grin.
“I am ready!” she said with gusto as we approached her. “Stella showed me how!”
And there it is: the moral of the story. It’s great to hold on to memories; they matter. But it’s even more great to set things up for the next era of memories, My grandkids have begun just that at Cranmore. Some day they’ll take their kids there and talk about the old days because a spirit like Cranmore has never dies. It just evolves – in all the right ways.
Cranmore Signpost
Where: Located in the heart of North Conway, N.H., and looking out on Mount Washington, Cranmore is about a three hour (plus a few minutes from time to time) from Boston proper.
Where to stay: The FairField Inn and Suites tucks up against the south end of the resort and is walkable (as well as offering shuttles). There are countless other lodging options in the area, including Eastern Slope Inn (https://easternslopeinn.com/) – as historic as the mountain itself and smack in the middle of the North Conway action.
The family-friendly and convenient Fairfield By Marriott Inn & Suites and their fire pits make a great apres spot. (Moira McCarthy photo)
Ski school and more: Cranmore is, after all, where American ski schooling was founded, and they still hold that dear. You’ll find hourly, half day, full day and multi-day lessons for all levels and ages, as well as top-of-the line rentals. Do reserve ahead of time, particularly for holliday weeks and weekends.
What else: There’s a fantastic tubing hill (with the Artisan’s Lodge restaurant and pub overlooking the action). On certain nights you can even take part in “Arctic Light Tubing,” an immersive experience with a light show and great music. There’s a Mountain Coaster and, of course, all the shopping and other fun in North Conway.
Where to dine: Countless choices are out there, including the classics like Horsefeathers and Delaney’s Hole in the Wall, the super new like Cheese Louise, the upscale yet cozy like Barley & Salt, the local favorites like Mae Kelley’s Cottage and more. Your best bet for finding what you’re craving is the Mount Washington Valley Chamber (https://www.visitmwv.com/).
Embrace the history: Why not make it a family – or just you – project to embrace the history of Cranmore before you arrive. Check out two books written by local expert and lifetime Cranmore fan Tom Eastman. “The HIstory of Cranmore Mountain” tells the tale well. And a stop at the nearby New England Ski Museum 9https://www.newenglandskimuseum.com/) brings it all to life.
