“Leave the gun, take the cannoli.”

The line, reportedly ad-libbed by actor Richard Castellano, delivers levity into the backwater mob hit that precedes it, and is probably “The Godfather’s” most beloved. And quoted.

Seems fitting, because cannoli are among Italy’s most beloved desserts. And, of course, they are highly portable.

Crisp tubes of pastry dough filled with creamy-sweet cheese that tempts as it peeks from either end, cannoli are oft-adorned with nuts, chocolate and candied fruits. They come in adorable minis and hefty XL varieties. In fact, the 2022 world record-holder was a stunner — nearly 70 feet long — crafted by chefs in the Sicilian city of Caltanissetta, considered by many to be the dessert’s birthplace.

“Italian Tupperware” for cream storage. Chilling the filling for at least two hours is a must. (Amy Drew Thompson/Orlando Sentinel)

Cannoli’s also got a legendary rep as a phallic symbol, with origin stories rooted in the cozy kitchens where the Moorish ruler’s concubines created sweet tributes to their Emir and also in the convents. Some say the recipe was passed from one to the other.

In this story, sort of, I’m passing one to you.

The shells of the cannoli are where they took their name. The root, canna, means reed, around which the dough would be wrapped, then fried — creating the little tube into which the filling is piped. These days, metal rods generally do the job, which, in my opinion, is pretty labor-intensive on the home-cooking scale.

Do not let anyone convince you that you need a purpose-made pastry bag or fancy tip to fill these things. You don’t. Don’t try to fill it from one end. Pipe into one side first, then the other. (Amy Drew Thompson/Orlando Sentinel)

Conversely, the cream is easy. Like, really, really easy. This is why when I make cannoli (the singular, by the way is cannolo), it’s really only semi-homemade.

This time around, I got my shells at D’Amico & Sons Italian Market and Bakery in Oviedo, Florida.

I picked these up at D’Amico & Sons Italian Market and Bakery in Oviedo. It’s also where I bought the mini-cannoli shells for 75 cents a pop. (Amy Drew Thompson/Orlando Sentinel)

Once here, you might leave the mission and take the cannoli because they sell ’em. In fact, they make most of the cakes, pastries and cookies you’ll see (the St. Joseph’s pastry with the cannoli filling is divine), including the cannoli shells. But, if you remain undeterred after seeing what’s available, they’ll sell you the miniature ones for 75 cents apiece.

Plan to spend more, though. You will not be leaving this place without at least a few things in your basket.

Cannoli dip is a decadent and fun way to serve the cream. I just fold in some extra whipped cream to make it a little lighter, more “dip”-like. (Amy Drew Thompson/Orlando Sentinel)

I absconded with a slice of pizza, a sausage and broccoli rabe hero, seafood, olives and other goodies from the self-serve bar and an absolutely gorgeous bastone. And a clamshell full of “Angel Wings,” a fried pastry dough cookie that became the chips to my alternative presentation: cannoli dip.

It’s a fun and even easier way to showcase the cannoli cream, which I make just a tad lighter and creamier (and thus, dip- and scoopable) by adding a tad more whipped cream to the filling mixture you’ll find below.

Naked cannoli: a nice option if you’re watching your sugar. The cream has far less than you’d imagine. (Amy Drew Thompson/Orlando Sentinel)

Cannoli dip needs no piping. Serve it as you would any dip, garnished with goodies — Sugar wafers! Fruit! Pizelle! Waffle cone! Broken cannoli shells! — and watch the party happen.

Cannoli filling can be made with ricotta or mascarpone or a combination thereof. I’m keeping it simple here with ricotta. Many, many recipes will tell you to strain it, which would likely be necessary for some cheese. If your ricotta is of the loose and watery variety, let it strain for at least a couple of hours in the fridge before you start. In my experience with simple, store-bought ricotta (this time around, it was Polly-O), I have never found it necessary.

I call this pistachio-crushing technique “the nonna method.” If you know, you know. (Amy Drew Thompson/Orlando Sentinel)

It’s a versatile cream to which flavors like lemon, chocolate and pumpkin spice can be added, as well. Make it once, and you may be tempted to play. The ease of it may see you making it a regular in your dessert rotation as you revel in both the simplicity — and the adoration of your delighted friends and family.

I will always take the cannoli over the gun. Possibly all the cannoli, so don’t sleep on them. (Amy Drew Thompson/Orlando Sentinel)

Homemade Cannoli Cream

Most cannoli-filling recipes are very similar. This one comes courtesy of FoodFolksandFun.net. (foodfolksandfun.net/how-to-make-cannoli-cream). Some notes: Piping the cream is easy using a Ziploc-style bag with the corner cut off. Pipe from one end, then the other, to fill your cannoli shell completely. Also, the ends can be finished in “traditional” toppings, like mini chocolate chips or crushed pistachios, but it’s a blank canvas. Crushed Oreos, Fruity Pebbles, whatever you like.

Buon appetito!

Find me on Facebook, X or Instagram (@amydroo) or on the OSFoodie Instagram account @orlando.foodie. Email: amthompson@orlandosentinel.com. For more fun, join the Let’s Eat, Orlando Facebook group.

I went traditional with toppings on this assignment, but feel free to be creative. Crushed Ferrero Rocher? Rainbow sprinkles? You do you. (Amy Drew Thompson/Orlando Sentinel)

Ingredients

1/2 cup whipping cream
15-ounce container whole milk ricotta cheese, strained
1/2 cup powdered sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/3 cup mini dark chocolate chip

Directions

Using a mixer, whip cream until stiff peaks form. Place cream into a small bowl and set aside.
In a mixing bowl, combine ricotta, powdered sugar, vanilla and cinnamon. Mix on medium until well combined (about a minute).
Fold in whipped cream and, if you’re using them, chocolate chips.
Chill the filling in fridge for at least two hours before piping into cannoli shells.

Notes

This recipe makes about 2 1/2 cups of cannoli filling. You will need about 2 tablespoons of cannoli filling to fill each small cannoli.
This will make enough filling to fill 20 small and 12 large cannoli.
This recipe calls for strained ricotta cheese.