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‘The Supremes at Earl’s All-You-Can-Eat’ review: Novel’s adaptation a sustaining meal
“The Supremes at Earl’s All-You-Can-Eat” is the latest straight-to-streaming release from Searchlight Pictures, the adaptation of Edward Kelsey Moore’s best-selling 2013 novel debuting this week on Hulu.
Given its production values, that the film was routed right to home theaters feels appropriate. Oh, they’re fine, to be sure — they just won’t wow you.
That said, the friendship — the deep, heavily tested sisterhood — at the heart of director and co-writer Tina Mabry’s movie is big-screen-worthy.
The bond shared by Black women Odette, Barbara Jean and Clarice is brought to life via two sets of actresses and two timelines. Together — and, unfortunately, at times, alone — they will face racism, disease, addiction, loss and pain. As a viewer, you hope only that they’ll come out stronger for it on the other side.
Although “The Supremes at Earl’s All-You-Can-Eat” briefly introduces us to Odette (an excellent Aunjanue Ellis-Taylor of “King Richard” and “The Color Purple”) late in her life before taking us back to a time shortly before her birth in 1950, the story begins in earnest in 1968. It is then that teen pals Clarice (Abigail Achiri, “The Underground Railroad”) and Odette (Kyanna “KeeKee” Simone, “All American”) befriend Barbara Jean (Tati Gabrielle, “Chilling Adventures of Sabrina”), who has recently lost her mother and faces living alone with her abusive stepfather. (In a fun scene, Odette stands up to him in a way that surprises not only Barbara Jean but close friend Clarice).
Clarice and Odette reach out to all-around good guy Big Earl (Tony Winters, “Queen Sugar”) — owner of the film’s titular diner, where the trio will be given the nickname “The Supremes” — who insists Barbara Jean move into the room vacated by his grown daughter.
At the diner, the young ladies spend time with gentlemen suitors. For Clarisse, there is slick football player Richmond (Xavier Mills, “The Wood”), and for Odette, the quiet-and-shy James (Dijon Means, “P-Valley”).
And while Barbara Jean is pursued by the older Lester (Cleveland Berto, “A Journal for Jordan”), she has her eyes fixed upon new diner hire Ray (Ryan Paynter, “Dopesick”), who the girls agree is very nice-looking for a white boy.
Although Chick doesn’t quite see it, Barbara Jean believes the world isn’t ready for two people like them to be together — and she soon is presented with terrifying evidence to support her theory.
Tati Gabrielle, left, Abigail Achiri and Kyanna “KeeKee” Simone portray friends who will go on to share years of good and not-so-good times in “The Supremes at Earl’s All-You-Can-Eat.” (Courtesy of Searchlight Pictures)
We spend time with the older versions of Barbara Jean (Sanaa Lathan, “Love & Basketball,” “The Best Man”), Clarise (Uzo Aduba, “In Treatment,” “Orange Is the New Black”) and Odette beginning around the turn of the century, as they mourn the loss of someone special with husbands Lester (Vondie Curtis Hall, “Harriet”), Richmond (Russell Hornsby, “Seven Seconds”) and James (Mekhi Phifer, “8 Mile”) by their sides. (Also, know that Chick will resurface, now portrayed by Julian McMahon of “Nip/Tuck” fame.)
Most of the trials and tribulations still lie ahead for the Supremes, who still regularly occupy the same table at Earl’s, where they can talk and share the good and bad of life.
Mabry (“Mississippi Damned”), who shares the writing credit with Cee Marcellus, does a nice job juggling the story’s two timelines, going back and forth a few times smoothly.
More importantly, she shows a deft touch, aided by the actors, with the story’s character-driven moments. The one that hits home the hardest comes when two of the women learn late in the affair that the other has been keeping something highly concerning from them, carrying the burden by herself. The looks they give her, showing both incredible frustration with her and great concern for her, are perfect.
And then there’s a moment we won’t spoil, set back where we encountered Odette in the film’s opening moments as she sits under a tree. It’s, well, it’s just perfect — something sure to put a smile on your face.
That’s true in general of “The Supremes at Earl’s All-You-Can-Eat,” even as it makes the occasional misstep. For example, the long-foreshadowed and almost obligatory near-implosion of their friendship feels forced and unearned based on all we’ve seen to that point.
This story — at least the screen version of it — uses a sycamore tree as a metaphor for the trio’s strength and longevity. It’s an effective bit of symbolism for three women well worth knowing.
‘The Supremes at Earl’s All-You-Can-Eat’
Where: Hulu.
When: Aug. 23.
Rated: PG-13 for thematic content, sexual content, strong language including racial slurs, and violent content.
Runtime: 2 hours, 4 minutes.
Stars (of four): 2.5.